Newfoundland

Rating

Description

Picture

Riding
*****

Good road(you won't get lost, there's only one road), not much to no traffic traffic except when the ferry lands, and beautiful scenery. Just follow Route 1 and then the Viking Trail. The only thing that disturbs this idyllic peace is the wind. North of Gros Monde the wind is a presence. It can blow with a force that throws trucks off of the road. You probably won't see that kind of wind in the summer but you will see a persistently strong wind that will become a constant and sometimes disturbing companion. The wind will blow you with little effort from Rocky Harbor to St. Anthony (this is quite a sleigh ride on a recumbent!!!). But plan on taking the bus back at least to Corner Brook. The bus driver will be happy to stick your bike in the luggage compartment. Just check the schedule, the bus doesn't run everyday and get there early, because the luggage compartments fills up with freight.

The geography of Newfoundland is probably unlike any you have seen before. Newfoundland is a rock. Anything that sticks up on that rock is blown flat by the constant wind. This has created an island with high plateaus. The grades aren't steep but you will find long climbs notable on a loaded recumbent as you move from one level to another.

Come prepared for weather, even in July Newfoundland is cool and has heavy rains. Also, bring the sense to get out of the rain. On rainy days, look for a motel and spend the day there. Riding all day in the rain when the temperature is 55F is not fun and fun is the reason you are there.

Camping
**

Savage camping is the standard here. You won't have much competition for sites. Where to camp is an issue, if you camp in the wind the wind may disturb light sleepers or those who can't tie their tents down securely to the rock. If you camp out of the wind the bugs can be furious. I usually pick out of the wind and eat in my tent. Bring a good sleeping pad, you'll be sleeping on very thinly covered rough rock.

There are beautiful places to camp if you develop an eye for finding them. The weather cycle will get you into a motel by the time you really need a shower. Motels are generally inexpensive and not fancy.

Food & Wine
***

You will be surprised how good a cold can of Raviolis can taste. Food stops are 30 to 60 miles apart on the west coast. Combination gas station, convenience store, and restaurant are the rule, just look for the Ultimar or Irving sign. Some of these are surprisingly good with lace curtains and tablecloths. Food selection is limited and fresh fruit and vegetables of of generally poor quality. Try the Cod tongues.

Sights
****

The quiet beauty is overwhelming. Newfoundland's west coast is filled with steep sided but flat topped mountains and forests that look like they have never been touched. Newfoundland has the highest moose density in the world and herds of Caribou. You will spend a lot of time riding by steep sided fiords filled with sub-zero water and a white-capped ocean that still has icebergs in July.

At the end of the Viking trail, you will reach L'Anse aux Meadows National Historic Park, an 1th century Viking settlement. Just as remarkable as the recreated Viking settlement are the stories the local guides tell of growing up at L'Anse aux Meadows before they had electricity, roads, or boat service.

Overall
*****

Riding the Viking Trail is a life experience. It's not for those who want cute B&B's, shopping, and nice restaurants. But for those who come prepared, you will never feel quite as close to the rough hand and beauty of Nature on a paved road as you will on the Viking Trail. This is a ride that will change your life.

Article by Roland